No. This is not the Harbormaster |
Carved from a single tree |
The main
The people of
The Samoan social structure continues to be based on the extended family, and the Samoans cling tightly to their traditions. However, the influence of missionaries is also noticeably present in the islands. Activities other than church are highly discouraged on Sunday - a day when all businesses are closed. The influence of the missionaries is also present in the clothing worn by Samoans. Their dress is highly modest - especially for such a warm climate. Men wear long pants or lava-lavas, and women wear long skirts and cover their shoulders. It is common to see men in business suit jackets wearing a lava-lava rather than pants. Even the police uniforms are lava-lavas.
At first we did not care too much for
But we had many more pleasant surprises than disappointments, and our most pleasant surprise was the people. Our interactions with the local population have all been positive. We met some American folks that now live here and they spent a day driving us around and we took a small boat to an island where we did some hiking. Since they had 12 year old Meagan, Emily got a nice friend to enjoy.
Our Guide George on Aunuu Island |
Emily and Meagan |
They have a wonderful library here and the girls were befriended by Mary the librarian. Mary is full of tattoos and a sea-life mural tattoo completely covers her back. She loaned Emily her library card saving us the $50 fee and Emily checked out and read several books. Even the government officials were consistently pleasant and helpful.
Mary The best Librarian in Samoa |
Emily with the young dancer |
Another surprise was the beauty of the island. In the past, many boaters have reported the harbor to be intolerably filthy and polluted by the outflow from the canneries. That is largely cleaned up. The cannery outflow is pumped out a few miles offshore, and there is no noticeable inflow from the canneries. Yes, it is still quite fragrant when the wind blows just wrong, but the prevailing winds usually keep the odors away from the small boat anchorage. After two days at anchor we got permission to bring our boat alongside a concrete dock. This made town trips and walks to the local church for mass much easier. Emily got to ride her bike around too. We ended up staying two full weeks waiting for mail to catch up to us and the longer we stayed, the more comfortable we became.
Docked at low tide in Pago Pago |
The harbor may be dirty but is full of life |
And when you travel outside the town of
As we drove through individual villages, we were impressed by the large number of churches, fales (meeting houses), and graves. Each village had at least one church and fale, and most villages had many. In one village, it seemed that each house had a fale in front of it. And there are family burial sites in front of most houses. Some are more elaborate than others, but it appears that most families bury their dead in front of their houses. The local Rotarians (yes Uncle Joe, I still go to meetings) said that these family plots reinforce the permanence of land ownership to Samoans.
It is simple and inexpensive to get around without a car. There is a bus system that is efficient, colorful, and very user-friendly. Each bus is privately owned, and each is a reflection of its owner. The buses are built atop car bodies and the upper bus his made entirely of wood. Each bus has a unique paint job on its outside, but the real personality emerges on the dash and area surrounding the driver. Think of how some people personalize their work space with pictures, trinkets, and memorabilia. Add feather boas, artificial flowers, and loud music, and you can imagine one of the more sedate buses. They were wonderful! And we never paid a fare over $1.
We met a Samoan family and they were very friendly. Penitani (Benny) brought us free Papaya and gave Kim 6 natural white pearls he had found diving here. Kim made his wife Lisa some earrings and Emily gave the children stuffed animals. We agreed to deliver some food items to his parents in Tonga since they are much cheaper here. He said they will give us a private tour in Tonga and we can’t wait to meet them. He also has relatives in the islands of Niuatoputapu and Vava’u that we also will visit in the coming months.
Penitani, Lisa and kids |
Jo rides for the first time |
We went to a dinner one night at
Liquids on top in coconut shells |
Flying Fox |
Tom
7 comments:
Thank you for visiting
From Pago Pago,
John
Most of the places you've been to sound good but I particularly like the sound of Samoa and the Samoans. How wonderful!
Thanks for the up-date. Since my last status report for K1MMY is dated August 7, and shows you at Pago Pago, I assumed you were just hanging around. Glad everything is OK, and that you are able to "make up" at Rotary.
Best to all -
Uncle Joe
Hello, I finally figured out how to post a comment after 2 years! I've been following your journey and am fascinated by all the experiences and discoveries you are having. Your journal and photos are great! I hope you keep a record of them to view and share years after you come home. I am praying for your safety and I hope you continue to enjoy your voyage. Love, Cousin Bev
Hello Lawlers!
I sure am enjoying living vicariously through you and your adventures!
I can imagine it is quite for Emily to meet up with young people and hangout for awhile!
What gorgeous places you have been!
Thanks for the update and the photos!! Wow! Beautiful!
Hanging in here! Some days are better than others but I am still here to experience ALL the ups and downs and for that I am grateful!
Looking forward to your next update!
Love and hugs!
Sue
Hi Tom, Kim & dear Emily,
Great hearing about your latest adventures in American Samoa. Enjoying the pictures and hearing about your travels. Are you planning on writing books when you finish, or are you doing that along the way? Just want to put in my request for a signed copy, if that's the case. Missing my library friends. Lots of changes here at Groton Public Library. My thoughts and prayers are with you. Sue Palmieri
So, I go back to EB only to find you retired....you DOG :)
I am now working with Mark LaPorte........
Nancy
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