Tiptoeing through the Virgins

We checked in at Charlotte Amalie, St. Thomas only to find that US citizens coming from Puerto Rico can bypass the customs and immigration step. So we toured the harbor town and bought a few items. Kim showed great restraint going by the duty free jewelry stores, but we will be back twice to shuttle my Mom to/from the airport and she will get another chance. It was a rolly anchorage with all the activity in this harbor, so we dodged a few cruise ships and a sea plane and left for St John.

Two thirds of St. John Island is a U.S. National Park, and was given as a gift by the Rockefellers in 1956 provided it was maintained and the public was allowed free access. We spoke to a local boater and they are all upset that the Park has filled most of the nice anchorages with moorings, charging everyone $15 per night and not allowing anyone to anchor if moorings are available. We are all for moorings where coral reefs are being damaged or critical habitats or eel grass are being hurt by repeated anchoring. In those areas, we gladly pay the fee although we also dive the moorings to determine if they are safe for our 60,000 lb home. Most places we prefer to anchor since my anchor and chain are new and sized to keep me safe in 60 knot winds. But in most of St John, the bottom is just good old sand and filling up anchorages is just a veiled way to generate revenue.

We entered secluded Coral Bay purposely since we were told that this spot is far from the main harbors and residents there are welcoming to cruisers. We snuck way back into Princess Bay and had the whole bay to ourselves. Sure enough, the Park had put in 5 moorings, but,...get this… they were all marked Day Use. Where were we supposed to go at night? We had read that there is no fee for these moorings so we grabbed one and settled in. We swam around the bay finding only sand bottom, but saw many fish, starfish and even a 4 foot barracuda. We stayed for three days (and nights) and we never saw a soul. We dinked over to the local town and enjoyed lunch. While walking the back roads, we saw an enormous flowering bush(tree?) that was just covered with Bananaquits and hummingbirds.

We left for Tortolla and Tom checked into the British Virgin Islands(BVIs), which are a British Crown Territory, and spent most of the morning looking for a guy to do some stainless work. The quality of the craftsmanship and the ability to get good quality stainless was really lacking in most of the previous islands. Here in the BVIs, thousands of boats are chartered here and a great infrastructure has been developed to fix the boats and keep them in service. Sure enough, I found the shop and two small but important jobs will be done in a week.

That business taken care of, we headed to The Baths. An unusual geologic formation known as "The Baths" located on the southern end of the island makes Virgin Gorda one of the BVIs major tourist destinations. At The Baths, the beach shows evidence of the island's volcanic origins, as huge granite boulders lie in piles on the beach, forming scenic grottoes that are open to the sea. The massive boulders create a series of caves and whirlpools that are fun to explore. The light streams in from above and small nurseries of fish like tiny Sergeant Majors swim the many small shallow pools of water. It was fun to see this site through Emily’s eyes, since Kim and I had visited these islands on a bareboat charter of a 51 foot sailboat almost 15 years ago.

We left Road Town in the dark to arrive at the Baths at sunrise and were rewarded with a free mooring. We kayaked in and had the place to ourselves for almost two hours. By the time we returned to the boat, there were more than twenty boats moored and anchored and they were marching ashore. We were happy to leave and proceeded to another spot we had visited before near the Bitter End Yacht Club.

This area of Virgin Gorda is called Gorda Sound and provides nearly 360 protection from winds and waves. We intend to stay here for a few days and relax while we reminisce about old memories and create new ones.

Tom